REVIEW
India Palace's food satisfies palate and soul
KAREN FELDMAN cuisine@florida-weekly.com

The pleasure of a trip to India Palace starts as soon as I open the door and get a whiff of the spices that fill the air - a potpourri of cardamom, cilantro, cumin, fennel and who knows what else. What I do know is that it lifts my spirits before I've even taken a seat.

India Palace is aptly named. The Fort Myers restaurant is an establishment in which one of the world's finest cuisines gets the royal treatment.

(Before we get to the particulars of my most recent visit, an aside:

I know a lot of people who shy away from Indian food out of fear that it will be too spicy or because they have an aversion to curry. To them I say: Get over it. There are plenty of dishes that have no curry (which is really just a mix of seasonings and comes in almost as many variations as the places that serve it) and can be prepared without any heat (of the spice-driven variety) upon request.)

The meal began with papadam, thin crisp wafers studded with black pepper and spices. They serve in much the same capacity as tortilla chips in Mexican restaurants, fried plantains in Cuban cafes and fried noodles in Asian ones: They are something to munch on while you consider the menu.

PHOTO KAREN FELDMAN Indian fare features lots of spices and vegetables. From left, tandoori chicken, bhindi over basmati rice, onion naan and vegetable biryani.

We shared appetizers of onion bhaji and vegetable samosa. The former resembled fried turnovers stuffed with creamy potatoes and peas flavored with just a hint of curry. They were delicious. The bhaji resembled fried fritters containing onions, cauliflower, potatoes and greens. Both were just fine on their own but both benefited from a light dunking in the tamarind chutney, which brought a little sweet and a little sour to the mix. For those with a high tolerance for heat, there's also onion chutney that's served with virtually all meals. It's chopped onions in a red-tinged blend that looks innocent enough but packs about a three-alarm blaze with every bite. A little bit goes a long way.

A lot of the appetizers are fried, so those who limit their intake of fried fare might want to try the gingery lentil soup to start. It's one of my favorites.

Statuary and wall hangings contribute to the authentic feel of India Palace in Fort Myers

Tandoori chicken - well-marinated assorted chicken parts roasted in a clay oven - tastes nothing like curry and, in the case of that served at India Palace, the poultry is moist and flavorful enough to stand on its own. Those who want a little sauce can try tama- rind or fruit chutney, a smooth mint chutney, mild yogurt- based raita or a curry sauce (served on the side and at whatever degree of heat you desire).

I enjoyed a mixed tandoori platter, which contained three pieces of chicken tandoori, smaller chunks of chicken tikka, two big shrimp and two sections of lamb kebab accompanied by slices of onion and green pepper. All were moist and well seasoned without being salty. I liked the tamarind chutney with this the best. I shared with my dinner companion and still had plenty of leftovers.

We also tried a plate of vegetable biryani and one of bhindi.

Biryani is a basmati-based dish prepared with any number of accompaniments, including lamb, shrimp and chicken. This version had no meat, but did possess chopped cauliflower, peas and other veggies plus almonds and a well-blended palette of herbs and spices. A bit of raita added some richness to an already noteworthy dish.

Don't ask me how the kitchen accomplishes this, but the okra that dominates the bhindi is cut into bite-sized pieces and cooked to a perfect tender crisp. It's not fried but neither is it the slightest bit mushy. Onions, ginger, tomatoes and still more spices show the okra off to full advantage.

One order of onion naan is enough for most people to share. It's a round flat bread filled with cilantro and onions then cooked in a tandoor. For a milder taste, try the butter naan, which has a very mild flavor.

The final touch was to split an order of gulab jamun, balls of fried dough drenched in a syrup containing rose water and honey. One each afforded a few sweet bites with which to bring the meal to a most satisfying close.

While the food's the star here, the demure dining room and the quiet demeanor of the proprietor and his staff all

add to the pleasure of the meal.

On this evening, the dining room appeared to have brighter lighting than usual, which my companion and I both liked. It enabled guests to get a good look at the wall art: vividly colored canvasses on which were painted figures whose clothing bore rows of sequins and other baubles that glimmer in the light. Indian music plays softly in the background, rounding out the serene nature of the place.

I've dined at India Palace quite a few times and always find everything fresh, expertly seasoned and properly cooked. All that at a place in which the highest priced entrée is $16.95.

India Palace is a place in which you can eat like royalty without spending a king's ransom.