REVIEW
Stylish setting, inventive fare make Biddle's a sure bet
KAREN FELDMAN cuisine@florida-weekly.com

When the occasion calls for a cozy dinner for two, Biddle's fills the bill in style. This wellappointed restaurant and piano bar offers a setting that's lush without being fussy, live music that complements the meal without impeding conversation, a menu that does justice to both surf and turf and a service staff that aims to please. For my most

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visit, I made reservations even though it was a post-season weeknight. I was glad I did as business turned out to be rather brisk.

We arrived early enough to snag one of the semi-circular booths that my husband and I love for their comfort, the ability to sit close together and the expansive view it affords of the dining room.

Atmospherically speaking, Biddle's has a lot going for it. The interior is done in warm golds and browns that give the room a pleasant glow as the sun sets. The lighting is subtle but sufficient, a balance not always achieved in these parts. And, at least on the night of my visit, the piano-and-bass duo who played and sang nostalgic old tunes such as "New York, New York," "Can't Take my Eyes Off of You," and "Besame Mucho" gave the place the charming feel of an oldtime supper club.

COURTESY PHOTOS The bar and dining booths atw Biddle's on Summerlin Road in Fort Myers

Another plus was that the hostess seated adults only in the main part of the dining room. Parties with children were seated at booths and tables closer to the entrance so that no one had to worry unduly about the kids making too much noise. It was a thoughtful touch that appeared to work well for everyone.

A bottle of 2004 Frog's Leap Napa Zinfandel started things off. It was lightly chilled (approximating the temperature of a cool wine cellar, rather than the ambient temperature of a Florida room) and our server made sure to replace our white wine glasses with those customarily used for reds.

She also brought us a warm loaf of bread that proved a worthy vehicle for the delicate roasted garlic and Parmesan cheese that accompanied it.

Before I get too involved in discussing the food, let me mention that prices at Biddle's are on the higher end, but, for the most part, the portions are proportionately larger, too. Diners with more modest appetites might consider splitting one of the bountiful entrees.

A tower of tuna appetizer was exactly what it sounded like: a vertical structure composed of layers of tender tuna and wakame surrounded by a moat of avocado salsa. It was a large and delicious dish, right down to the chunks of avocado that were perfectly ripe, firm and sweet.

T h e coconut shrimp was a good starter, too. Three large shrimp had been properly fried then placed on small pools of tangy mustard plum sauce

with a mound of greens in the center of the plate. The shrimp were cooked just right and weren't cloyingly sweet.

For entrees, we tried one from the land and one from the sea.

The grouper Veracruz consisted of a perfectly cooked piece of fish accompanied by juicy shrimp, green olives, tomatoes and spinach topped with shreds of crabmeat all served over pasta. All of the ingredients were fresh and vibrant, blending harmoniously for an entrée that tasted lighter than it might sound.

The presentation of the Portobello strip steak was impressive. The steak was topped with slices of Portobello mushrooms, roasted red peppers, a generous application of gorgonzola cheese and a light drizzle of balsamic reduction. I removed much of the cheese, which allowed the rich grilled flavor of the meat to come through. It shared the plate with mashed potatoes, which were average, and a healthy serving of freshly sautéed zucchini, carrots, onions and other veggies.

After inspecting the dessert tray, we passed on Biddle's signature dessert, a chocolate piano filled with zabaglione and fresh berries (it's very good, but we've had it before) and instead shared a slice of brownie cake. Served with vanilla ice cream, it's a very rich chocolate concoction that was quite good, but would have been better if it hadn't been so cold and, consequently, a bit hard to cut.

Our server took good care of us throughout most of the meal. However, we wound up pouring our own wine and had to flag her down for water refills. We saw other tables d o i n g the same. There was a disturbingly long interval between the time we finished dessert and when we managed to get our check and yet another overly long period before she processed it and we could leave.

This happens fairly often - you are basically off a server's radar once all the dishes have been delivered - but the meal ended on a harmonious note nonetheless because the music played on while we waited in our cozy booth built for two.

A NOTE ON THE APRIL 17 REVIEW: With apologies to Cin Cin, the rating for atmosphere should have been three-and-ahalf stars. A star was lost somewhere in the production process.