Delicious Things dishes up exactly what name promises
REVIEW
karenFELDMAN cuisine@florida-weekly.com

It takes confidence - or supreme naivete - to name a place Delicious Things. In the case of just such a named establishment in downtown Fort Myers, it's an apt moniker.

Owner Juergen Gerlach has crafted a cozy and welcoming restaurant that seems as if it has been plucked whole out of Italy and transplanted on the rather desolate strip that is now First Street.

When it's open, Delicious Things is easy to spot from the street: It's the storefront behind about four attractively set tables and a tall candle that's generally burning, weather permitting. Inside, a formidable granite-topped bar and a wall full of wooden cabinets fill the far right side of the room.

The rest of the space contains large wood tables with tile insets surrounded by substantial chairs equipped with wellcushioned seats that even my slender and selective husband pronounced comfortable.

Overhead is a black industrial-style ceiling from which hang small cobalt blue lights that shed subtle light on the tables. The walls are pale yellow with a burnt orange sponge pattern. The floor is covered in sandy-beige laminate. A select few black-framed photos hang from the walls with more on wallmounted shelves. The overall effect is one of soothing coolness, a blissful escape from a blazing evening.

PHOTO KAREN FELDMAN Creamy risotto and fresh vegetables prove fine accompaniments to ahi tuna.

Our server, whose hospitality also had a charming Old World quality about it, greeted us as soon as we were settled into our table and quickly brought glasses of Terre del Primitivo, a zinfandel-like Italian red with hints of red berries and a subtle mineral scent. A basket of fresh flatbread with soft butter that appeared to have chives and sun-dried tomato flecks in it was so good we had trouble limiting ourselves to a single slice.

We began by sharing a classic Caprese, a simple but elegant salad made with a few well-chosen fresh ingredients that unite to become greater than the sum of the parts. Sliced ripe tomatoes alternated with homemade mozzarella, encircling the plate. They were topped with fresh basil, olive oil and shavings of a full-bodied Parmesan cheese with a small mound of salad greens and a few sprigs of frisee sprinkled about. It was a superb version of a dish I normally avoid, having faced down countless insipid versions featuring pallid tomatoes and tasteless mozzarella.

PHOTO KAREN FELDMAN Creme brulee is a specialty of the house at Delicious Things.

The braciola was just as delicious. That's a lyrical name - and so it sounded as it rolled off the practiced tongue of our server - for beef that's stuffed and rolled. In this case, the stuffing consisted of a savory blend of provolone cheese, garlic, pine nuts and herbs. It was finished with a red winetomato sauce that perfectly complemented the rolls and their contents, all of which was served over al dente pasta.

My companion opted for a nightly special of ahi tuna on risotto with a mélange of fresh vegetables. In what was the one minor flaw of the evening, our server forgot to ask him how he liked his tuna cooked and, in turn, we didn't think about telling him until after our appetizers were served. My companion asked for it medium rare, but it came out decidedly medium, with just a wisp of pink at the center. Nonetheless, the tuna was exceptionally moist and well seasoned, the creamy risotto perfect. The veggies - carrots, rutabaga, celery, zucchini and peas - were cooked through but not mushy and were lightly seasoned, allowing their fresh flavors to shine. Like everything else we had, this dish was delicious.

Dessert choices were many, but we wanted something made on the premises. Our server suggested the créme brulee. It was a magnificent rendition, the custard thick and eggy, the top just lightly singed so the sugar was crunchy but not brittle. Knowing that I would have to confess in this column, I refrained from licking the plate, but was sorely tempted.

We finished with full-bodied decaf cappuccinos, which arrived steaming and with just enough foam on top.

It's hard to say how service would be on a night when several tables are occupied. On this Saturday evening, there were only a couple of other parties and our server handled all of us deftly and professionally. He checked on us after each course, making sure the food was satisfactory (it always was). He kept our water glasses filled and promptly whisked away the plates with which we'd finished.

But besides attending to the technical aspects, he was well-versed with the menu. He was happy to offer an opinion if we asked for it and his suggestions proved right on target.

I'm not sure why this lovely little spot hasn't yet become the talk of the town. An establishment that specializes in things this delicious is a rare find indeed.

If you go

Delicious Things
2262 First St., Fort Myers; 332-7797

>>Hours: Summer hours, in effect through Sept. 30, are 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday.

>>Reservations: Accepted
>>Credit cards: Major cards accepted.
>>Price range: appetizers, $6.50-$11.55;
entrees, $14.80-$28.90
>>Beverages: Beer and wine served

>>Seating: Comfortable conventional seating in the dining room as well as a limited number of seats at the bar and a few tables outside along First Street.

>>House specialties: Caprese, carpaccio, lasagna Bolognese, gnocchi, créme brulee and tiramisu

>>Volume: Low
>>Parking: Free parking is available on streets
that intersect First Street.
>>Web site: www.deliciousthings.us