Chile Ranchero offers generous servings of authentic Mexican food
REVIEW
karenFELDMAN cuisine@florida-weekly.com

It takes some serious coaxing to get my husband into a Mexican restaurant. Sadly, he's a casualty of too many meals at too many undistinguished Tex-Mex establishments in which every dish is finished with a layer of gooey cheese and lard-laden refried beans.

But when I assured him that Chile Ranchero was not that sort of place, that he'd find dishes containing nothing but seafood or vegetables, he gave in and we soon found ourselves in the cool and relatively deserted dining room of Chile Ranchero.

Even serious foodies may be forgiven if they haven't found this little treasure yet, although it's been open for at least a couple of years. It's tucked behind Kinko's on busy U.S. 41, along the stretch wherein both the stores and the highway seem perpetually under construction.

That may be why there were but two other tables occupied during my recent weeknight visit. Perhaps there's a larger crowd on karaoke nights, which take place every Saturday, or we just hit it on an off night.

But considering the caliber of the food and the modest prices, Chile Ranchero ought to be packed every night.

PHOTO KAREN FELDMAN Chile Ranchero serves a richly decadent flan that's worth the calories.

The menu is wide-ranging, with quite a few dishes that may be new to non- Mexicans. But there's also some familiar territory - tacos, quesadillas and fajitas - although these, too, may be a variation from the U.S. usual. Tacos, for example, will be soft corn tortillas, not the ubiquitous crisp u-shaped shells that shatter at the first bite. At Chile Ranchero you can get tacos filled with traditional ingredients such as higado (liver), lengua (tongue), pescado (fish), or carne adobada (marinated then steamed steak).

The hostess/server brought us a bowl of square cracker-like chips and another of a lively, but not fiery, fresh salsa along with mild Tecate beer complete with lime wedge.

Appetizers soon followed: a vegetable quesadilla and nachos with ceviche, both of which were excellent.

The quesadilla consisted of a flour tortilla folded in half and filled with broccoli, fresh red bell pepper, onions and just enough cheese to bind it all together. It was sliced into easy-to-eat quarters and served with shredded lettuce studded with tomato and jalapeno, along with three bottled sauces which we discovered were essentially mild, moderate and super-hot side condiments. I particularly liked the tomatillo-based one.

The nachos could well have fed two or three people. The plate was piled with the same crisp chips we'd started with, but these were topped with chunks of marinated shrimp and fish, slices of avocado and diced tomato. It was served with hot sauce, which was tasty, but the fresh flavors of the ingredients were vibrant enough to stand on their own.

My now quite enthusiastic dinner companion launched into a large serving of camarones al mojo de ajo - shrimp in a sauce of butter, garlic and beer - while I tackled the parrillada ranchero - samples of grilled chicken, steak and chorizo sausage topped with a roasted tomato sauce.

The shrimp were cooked just enough, lending their delicate sweetness to the simple but excellent sauce.

I found the chorizo sausage somewhat bland and crumbly, but the grilled chicken and thinly sliced steak were both well seasoned and properly cooked. Again, the sauce added just the right blend of seasonings to set off the protein.

Both entrees were fresh and delicious, served with rice flecked with corn and savory beans topped with a sprinkling of freshly grated cheese.

Despite the hearty dinner we'd just finished, we tore into a lusciously rich slice of flan topped with real whipped cream, and finished off every last bit.

Throughout our meal, the woman who handled all front-of-the-house activities was uniformly pleasant and accommodating. Overall, I'd characterize the service as leisurely, but that doesn't mean we ever felt abandoned or ignored. Each course arrived within a reasonable interval and used dishes were removed in a timely fashion, but we were permitted to linger over our food, talk and relax without feeling rushed.

Although there weren't a lot of other people in the place on this night, both other parties included parents and children, which gave the place some life. A large-screen television situated in one corner of the dining room played Spanish music videos for most of the evening.

Vines of what looked to be silk greenery wind around windows and doorways, while the red floor, chairs and placemats adorned with green and red chile peppers give the dining room a festive look.

Not only was the meal generously proportioned - I took home enough of my entrée for another meal - but the prices are extremely modest. The feast I just described cost less than $55, excluding tax and tip.

Chile Ranchero is the genuine article. It's time that more people got a chance to find out for themselves.

If you go Chile Ranchero Restaurante y Taqueria

11751 S. Cleveland Ave., Fort Myers; 275-0505
Ratings:
Food: four stars
Service: three stars
Atmosphere: three ½ stars

>>Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through
Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday,
9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday
>>Reservations: Not necessary.
>>Credit cards: Major cards accepted.
>>Price range: appetizers $4.95-$8.95;
entrees, $7.95-$15.95
>>Beverages: Beer and wine
>>Seating: A few booths, mostly conventional
tables and chairs
>>Specialties of the house: Quesadillas,
nachos with ceviche, empanada, sopa del pescador
(seafood soup with vegetables, cilantro,
onions and lime)
>>Volume: Low to moderate
>>Parking: Free lot directly outside entrance.