Local palates show clout on the Tallahassee dining scene
REVIEW
karenFELDMAN cuisine@florida-weekly.com

So there I was in Tallahassee a couple of weeks ago examining my dinner options, when I spotted a couple of familiar names on the Andrew's Capital Grill & Bar menu.

First was the Lt. Gov. Jeff Kottkamp Club Sandwich, a grilled chicken breast with Swiss, cheddar and bacon. Yikes! The Republicans' efforts at trimming fat from the budget obviously don't extend to the dinner table.

A more dietarily conservative but liberally flavorful entry was the Aronberg-er, named for our intrepid and apparently adventurous of palate Senator Dave Aronberg. His namesake consisted of a spicy black bean burger with onions, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, jalapeno remoulade and salsa.

There were other items named after a variety of state politicos, not a surprise considering the restaurant is right in the heart of downtown, where members of the state's executive, legislative and judicial branches proliferate, not to mention eat.

It's comforting to know we're being represented in good taste in those circles.

Brew-ha-ha in the Cape

Attention foodies! If you are among those of us who prefer the hip individuality of the locally owned and run dining establishment, check out Brew Babies in the Cape.

Harold's on the Bay.

Yes, Brew Babies. Not Brew as in beer, but Brew as in coffee. The café began as a breakfast and lunch joint, serving coffee, cake, sandwiches and such. It was open for a couple of months last season, shut down for the summer and recently reopened for breakfast and lunch.

Last week, the indoor-outdoor café added a dinner (or supper, if you prefer) menu to its repertoire.

I had a delightful repast there Friday, despite a malfunctioning air conditioner that made the atmosphere a bit stickier than is optimal but well-placed fans helped take the edge off.

The menu is small by design, so that ingredients are used while at their peak of freshness. Beefy scallops and shrimp so large they that must have taken steroids were cooked perfectly, dressed in butter, garlic, herbs, salt and pepper then nestled onto thick slabs of bread with a side of intensely flavored mushrooms. A dish of grilled asparagus could have been a meal unto itself. And the tuna - served rare, as ordered but rarely delivered in that state - and the steak and lamb chops were vibrant, fresh and richly but simply seasoned.

Yet another downtown survivor, Patio 33.

We saw others eagerly devouring thick slabs of cake with big cups of coffee, but were too full to entertain either.

Consisting of two structures that might once have been homes, there's a beautiful courtyard between them that's ideal for dining al fresco. On the night we were there, I believe the owner, Valerie Elam, was playing piano and singing, while son, Dallas, was keeping up on guitar. Husband, Wayne, roamed the courtyard and the dining rooms making sure dinner was going well.

It's almost like eating dinner at the Elams' home. The place has big overstuffed red couches, chairs upholstered in various cat prints, art by local artists on the wall and for sale, coffee tables stocked with magazines. It's immensely comfortable and pleasant.

It's at 1520 Lafayette St. (take Del Prado south on block past Cape Coral Parkway and turn right and it's right there), Cape Coral.

Coming up Oct. 24, the café hosts "Night in Provence," with Chef Jean-Charles from The Chanticleer on Nantucket island, Mass. Expect a classic French meal with wines to complement each course. Cost: $75 per person. Call 542-2224 for details.

City frees Harold's, H2 from solitary confinement

It's been a long and painful six months on Bay Street in downtown Fort Myers as the city keeps chipping away at its redevelopment plan - and the businesses attempting to survive.

Starting this week, there are real sidewalks running along the front of both Harold's and its sister establishment H2.

"It's been a tough time," says chef/owner Harold Balink, "but it's worth it. The street looks great."

It will still be a couple of weeks until cars can park along his section of Bay Street but at least it's accessible by foot now.

He's hoping enough of his regulars as well as newcomers will be curious enough to return now that the war zone is moving up the street from him.

Harold's is at 2224 Bay St.

If you haven't made it there for Sunday brunch yet, you still have a chance on Oct. 28. Order from the menu and savor great bloody Marys or mimosas. And there's generally loads of parking not far from the restaurant. Call 226-1686 for reservations.

Hooray for yet another downtown survivor

Patio 33 celebrates its first anniversary on Thursday, Oct. 18, with an evening of festive drink as well as food by Chef Denis Meurgue, winner of a recent "Iron Chef"- style cook-off in Bonita Springs.

"The entire team at Patio 33 wants to thank the community for their continued support over the last year," says co-owner Roger Mercado Jr.

The event kicks off at 6:30 p.m. with cocktails and music. Dinner starts at 7 p.m. Tickets are $35 per person. Attire for the evening is black and white. Reservations are suggested, as seating is limited.

Patio de Leon is a charming little pedestrian area just between First and Hendry streets. The restaurant serves lunch Monday through Friday and dinner Monday through Saturday. Call 33PATIO (337-2846) for reservations.

Café Cibo moving across parking lot

Chef/owner Marc Marrotta tells me the new and enlarged Café Cibo, which will open in the much-renovated space once occupied by Kennedy's Cove, should open at the end of the month.

Marrotta had to do some serious work on the place but is eagerly anticipating being able to serve a full bar and an expanded wine list with more than 200 selections, 50 of which will be available in half bottles. A private dining room can accommodate a party of as many as 12 people. The menu's been updated and there will also be a small bar menu.

Cibo will be open for lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. Monday thru Thursday and 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

It's in the shopping center across from The Landings on McGregor Boulevard at College Parkway. Reservations are recommended. Call 454-3700.

Short takes

And now for a quick roundup of foodrelated restaurant events coming up in the next few weeks:

Tonight Java Moon Café & Grill on Daniels Parkway holds an Italian wine flight dinner from 6 to 9 p.m. It's $25 per person. Call 332-5282.

Crü's monthly protein series continues from 6 to 9 p.m. Sunday, Oct. 14, with a dinner featuring Harris Ranch meats. Call 466-3663 for details and reservations.

Roy's, Bonita Springs holds a cooking demo and dinner by Chef Wade Lowe in honor of National Seafood Month. It's at 6 p.m. Monday, Oct. 15. Call 498-7697 for details.

Rumrunners hosts Pete Seghesio of the Seghesio Family Vineyards for a wine dinner set for 7 p.m. Tuesday, Nov. 6. Chef Todd Johnson and staff will present a fivecourse meal with five wines for $85 per person. It's at Cape Harbour in Cape Coral. Call 542-0200.