VINO
(Just a little) smoke and no mirrors
jimMcCRACKEN vino@florida-weekly.com

The Reserve Cigar and Wine Bar opened a month ago across from Page Field, and I put off investigating at first. My hesitancy stemmed from the thought of drinking wine while someone puffed on an aromatic stogey right next to me.

I'm happy to report my fears were quickly allayed. Owner Patrick Leslie said he'd invested heavily in an air filtration system that refreshes the air every couple of minutes and that investment appears to be working.

Yes, you can smell the essence of cigar in the place, but it's not a heavy assault that burns eyes and clogs asthmatic lungs.

Despite the fact that there were quite a few patrons enjoying cigars, it didn't interfere with my ability to taste the wine I was sampling.

As I spoke with Leslie at the bar, our neighbors were a gent enjoying his cigar while his female companion smoked a cigarette and there was hardly a hint of cigar fragrance in the air. Leslie says he isn't trying to eradicate the smell of cigars altogether, but doesn't want smoke so thick that nonsmokers are uncomfortable.

The bar, which occupies the muchtransformed site of the restaurant formerly known as Tony Roma's, is an expansive room with a sleek and busy bar, impressionist art, inviting brown leather chairs and couches and a touch of iron scrollwork, giving it the feel of an English manor house or maybe a New Orleans parlor.

PHOTO BY JIM MCCRACKEN Patrick Leslie, owner, of the new Reserve Cigar and Wine Bar.

The idea, Leslie says, is to create an atmosphere in which people can relax and socialize before or after a meal.

"I want to bring back the art of conversation" he explained, "and I wanted to bring a little class to Fort Myers, make it more like Tampa and Miami."

There is a limited menu, featuring drinkfriendly fare such as pizzas, edamame, meat and cheese trays, spinach dip and a selection of desserts.

There are 16 strategically placed TVs in the room with satellite service so that sports fans will be able to tune in to their chosen events. When the games are not on, the normal background music is a mix of jazz and Sinatra. On weekends, there's live music.

The wine list was carefully chosen. There are 32 selections available by the glass including reds, whites, sparklers, and dessert wines, with 116 wines available by the bottle at prices ranging from $22 to $400.

All the wine selections are available for sale in the Reserve's liquor store. Just to keep it simple, the numbers on the wine list selections match the bin numbers in the store. (The package store is open the same hours as the bar, and also sells fine singlemalt scotch, cognac and other spirits.)

Leslie developed his wine list with the idea of helping wine lovers broaden their horizons. There are a few bids to the predictable - such as some Kendall Jackson and Sterling - but the majority are moderately priced, well-crafted wines such as Conundrum, Newton and Cloudy Bay.

He claims to have tried all but a couple of the wines offered.

"Do I sound like a lush?" he asked.

No, just someone focused and involved in his product.

You don't have to be a member to enjoy the Reserve, but those who are do get some special privileges.

First is the cool way members get to enter their separate bar, called The Cellar: by thumbprint scanner. There are several levels of membership, and all include access to the private bar and a personalized locker for storing cigars and wine. The private bar also has a conference table and the equipment to allow the showing of Power Point presentations.

But everyone is welcome to attend the Reserve's special events, such as wine tastings or specially priced wine flights on some Wednesdays. Upcoming special events include:

• Dec. 5: It's 100 years of port, with a flight of Taylor-Fladgate. Participants sample 10-, 20-, 30- and 40-year-old tawny ports for $35, which is $20 off the regular price.

• Dec. 19: The first wine etiquette class. Learn how to taste, swirl and enjoy wine.

Wine Picks of the Week

>>Newhaven New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2006 - about $17: Patrick Leslie from the Reserve Cigar and Wine Bar likes it because it's "grapefruity and fresh with a smooth clean finish." This sauvignon blanc has the characteristic zing and reasonable price that make it evident why the Kiwis are selling so much wine. >> Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Shiraz 2005 - about $17: Another great down-under winery, Thorn-Clarke makes this Barossa region shiraz into a robust mouthful of berries and spicy peppery notes that linger in the mouth. >>Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch 2006 - about $14: Super fresh and racy, with a slate and flowery bouquet, and a long, bright finish. >>Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 - about $30: Deep dark and inky in color, with a complex nose. Black cherries, plum and tobacco flavors balanced with an attractive amount of oak and a long finish.

If you go

>>Where: Reserve Cigar and Wine Bar, 10950 S. Cleveland Ave. (across from Page Field), Fort Myers; 210-0300

>>When: 10 a.m. to midnight, Sunday-Wednesday; 10 a.m. to 2 a.m., Thursday-Saturday >>Web: www.reservecigarandwinebar.com