Cantina Laredo delivers great food, gracious service
karenFELDMAN cuisine@florida-weekly.com

I mentioned in a previous column my skepticism at the notion of elegant Chinese fare until paying my first visit to P.F. Chang's. I must own up to a similar reaction upon hearing about Cantina Laredo and its concept of gourmet Mexican food. That doubt also ebbed quickly away on my first visit to this stylish chain restaurant.

I've returned quite a few times since the Fort Myers branch opened a few years ago and have found it to be consistently good, the food fresh and flavorful, delivered by servers who are both welltrained and uniformly hospitable.

But, as we all know, stuff happens. A restaurant can be terrific one time and astoundingly awful the next. That, I am happy to report, hasn't happened to Cantina Laredo. It's still a good bet, with a mix of Tex-Mex and Mexican standards and a few dishes less commonly encountered this far northeast of the border. The result is that both traditionalists and more adventurous diners can find something that suits their palates.

My most recent visit found the restaurant firing on all cylinders.

We were barely seated when a server attendant delivered chips and two salsas, one a bit spicy, the other more so.

Just a few minutes more elapsed before our server appeared to get our drink orders and return with two large margaritas, one made with anejo (aged) Corazon tequila, the other with a slightly brighter flavored anejo Cabo Wabo. Besides containing great-tasting tequila, these margaritas were devoid of that nasty-tasting and far too prevalent mix upon which most establishments rely these days.

We began our meal with an order of Top Shelf guacamole, Cantina's signature dish made tableside by the servers. In addition to the fresh avocadoes, customers may choose to add tomatoes, jalapenos, cilantro, lime juice and a little dish of seasonings. We took everything - limiting the jalapenos to about half of what was in the monkey dish and found that it had plenty of zip.

Just as we were scooping up the last bits of that creamy, zesty concoction with crisp tortilla chips, our entrees arrived.

My companion faced a lovely platter of shrimp poblano chimichanga with a side of fresh mixed veggies - red potatoes, green beans, carrots, mushrooms and onions garnished with almonds. A large poblano pepper had been stuffed with cheese and shrimp, fried to a golden hue and topped with a creamy mild sauce. It was huge and rich and delicious.

I tackled a house specialty: the Cantina Laredo Platter, which afforded me tastes of four dishes - beef taco, chile relleno, tamale and chicken enchilada. The taco's beef filling was shredded, not ground, and seasoned well. It didn't need enhancement, but a touch of guacamole (a dollop of a mild and simpler version of the appetizer version came with the platter) gave it an added creaminess. The tamale was tender and full of flavor and the chile relleno had a spicy bite that mingled well with the ground beef that appeared to have

some

raisins

and possibly nuts, providing a sweet counterbalance to the chile's heat. The enchilada contained tender chunks of chicken and was topped with a mild white sauce. The platter, priced at a little less than $16, was a bargain given how much food there was. The same applied to my companion's dinner, which was priced at a bit less than $14.

We were full, but the prospect of something sweet to counteract all those lively spices we'd just consumed remained appealing. Cantina Laredo takes dessert as seriously as the rest of its menu. I have previously sampled both the flan and the Mexican apple pie and both were well worth the calories.

On this night, we split a Mexican brownie, which consisted of a thick, ultra-chocolatey brownie that had lots of pecans. It was served on a sizzling skillet with Mexican brandy butter then topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream (cinnamon ice cream is the other option). The richness of the brownie, mingled with the hot, buttery sauce and cold ice cream made for a memorable finish to a great meal. Despite its size and the bountiful meal we'd already eaten, we managed to finish it off.

That leaves two more desserts - applefilled crepes and big chocolate cake - yet untested. I'll get back to you on those another time.

From the manager and hostesses who greet guests as they arrive to the servers and attendants, the employees are courteous, welcoming and competent, a combination that's hard to find these days.

Both the dining room, which contains primarily booths, and the bar, with its well-stocked shelves and artful lighting, are appealing places to dine. Be prepared for some noise in either spot. This isn't a

place for a quiet, romantic meal, but it is

a good choice for those seeking an excellent meal in a tasteful, lively setting. ¦