New Blu near FGCU a hit
Sushi bar in Gulf Coast Town Center serves first-rate food, drinks

The original Blu Sushi burst onto the dining scene five years ago this month, offering first-rate sushi and imaginative cocktails in a stylish, if somewhat cramped, setting.

It was a departure from the usual sedate, Japanese sushi establishment and proved an immediate hit.

Since then, the original site on McGregor has expanded, then a Naples location opened and, most recently, a third Blu Sushi was born, this one at Gulf Coast Town Center.

The new arrival is by far the most comely of the three with its lush Art Deco styling full of sharp angles, undulating curves and geometric patterns. There are, of course, some obligatory sea-blue walls and a flatscreen behind the bar that runs continuous undersea videos. Booths have high backs for privacy, the floors look like terrazzo but are probably tile and high ceilings give the dining room a lush yet funky feel.

Even the music - an electronic montage that's audible but doesn't detract from conversation - is designed to create a soulsoothing escape from the everyday grind.

Another fine feature of a dining experience at Blu Sushi is the service. An energetic, young staff has obviously been well schooled in the mechanics of service and the art of tending to people. Servers work as a team, with empty dishes whisked quickly off tables, new courses arriving at appropriate intervals and drinks refilled promptly. Not once did a server respond to a thank you with "No problem" or address us as guys (as in "No problem, guys").

FLORIDA WEEKLY PHOTO KAREN FELDMAN Here is a sampling of specialty rolls and sushi. Clockwise from left: lava drops, crunchy and seaside rolls, with tuna sushi, bottom, and egg in the center.

Deciding on what to drink here may be more difficult than selecting food. There are 22 sake selections that include green tea sake, Moonstone Coconut Lemongrass Infused Nigori Genshu from Oregon and Junmai Daiginjo Divine Droplets, a Japanese variety that, according to the menu, is brewed in igloos then filtered through canvas.

Then there are the creative cocktails for which Blu Sushi has become known. We tried the Mango X Rated - X-Rated vodka blended with the juices of mango and blood orange - and Mojito Blu's - Bacardi Light rum, lime juice and fresh mint, an excellent execution of the classic Cuban drink. Both were gorgeous and delicious.

FLORIDA WEEKLY PHOTO KAREN FELDMAN Blu Sushi touts its "outrageous cocktails" and these two don't disappoint: the Mango X Rated and Mojito Blu's.

We stopped at one drink each but there are lots of other interesting options, such as sakatinis (variations on the martini using sake), sake breezers (similar to the previous group but possibly a bit lighter on alcohol) and liquid confections (dessert drinks), such as the créme brulee and bananas Foster.

And then there's the food.

Don't look here for cooked Japanese standards such as teriyaki and sukiyaki. The menu includes miso soup, dumplings, edamame and octopus, but the rest of the lineup consists of sushi, sashimi and rolls. Those who haven't yet embraced raw fish can select from items that have little blue circles next to the names, which denote cooked dishes.

We began with cups of excellent miso soup. Blu Sushi's rendition consists of a richly flavored broth in which floated tender seaweed and bits of tofu. (There's another version called king miso that contains king crab meat and scallions but, at $9.95 - as opposed to the regular at $2.95 - it seemed a bit pricey for soup.

FLORIDA WEEKLY PHOTO KAREN FELDMAN An outdoor bar affords Blu Sushi customers a chance to drink and dine al fresco.

Next up were gyoza and sunomono. The shrimp dumplings were crisp outside with a soft, chewy filling of shrimp and cabbage, topped off by a tangy dipping sauce. I especially liked this dish for its departure from the standard gyoza, which usually contain chopped pork.

The sunomono was a delicious mix of shrimp, crab and octopus over cucumber salad with a tart-sweet ponzu sauce and crunchy sesame seeds. Served cold, all the ingredients were fresh and flavorful. It paired well with the gyoza.

Not certain how much sushi we'd need after soup and appetizers, we opted for three rolls and two orders of nigiri. It proved just right for two.

The tuna nigiri were smooth, buttery and fresh, as they should be. The egg nigiri were firm, slightly sweet rectangles that were perfectly cooked.

From the specialty rolls lineup, we tried the Crunchy, the Seaside and the Lava Drops. The resulting platter was almost too pretty to disrupt, but duty called so in we plunged.

I can't say which I liked the best as all three were standouts. The Crunchy contained smoked salmon, crab stick and cucumber with a bit of smelt roe on the outside topped with crunchy tempura flakes. The Seaside had fresh yellowtail and tuna with scallions and crunchy asparagus as well as some smelt roe. And the Lava Drops contained crab chopped with spicy mayo and just a touch of cream cheese. The roll was then sliced and each piece was dipped in tempura batter then deep fried, topped with eel sauce and sesame seeds.

We finished every last morsel, and wound up feeling sated but not stuffed.

From start to finish, Blu Sushi delivers first-rate food, drink and service in a lovely setting. It's a combination that's as harmonious as the sushi itself.