PAST REPASTS
A look at previous restaurant reviews from Florida Weekly

Azucar, 3326 Del Prado Blvd., Cape Coral; 549-02833.

In Spanish, Azucar means sweet and that's just what a meal at this lovely little family owned restaurant is. Hearty fare, sinfully rich desserts and soulful Cuban coffee are served up by a friendly staff. An appetizer sampler platter was delicious, laden with fried shrimp, tamales, yucca, roasted pork, chicken wings along with three sauces - mango-mustard, Creole and pineapple coconut. The paella Valenciana was a faithful version of the classic, with lots of chicken, shrimp, mussels, fish and a lobster tail, all perfectly cooked in rice made fragrant with saffron and white wine. Another entrée of roasted pork chunks with cumin-laced black beans and yellow rice was also tasty and large. Dessert is a must here. Both the flan and a chocolate cake with a crunchy topping and a hint of anisette were superb, although it was hard to pick just two from the dazzling array in the bakery. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Beer and wine served.

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Cantina Laredo, 200 Big Pine Way, Fort Myers, FL33907-59; 415-4424.

I was never much of a guacamole fan until I tried Cantina Laredo's version. Servers make it tableside, adding jalapenos, spices, cilantro, lime juice and tomatoes to the customers' taste. It's heavenly, especially when accompanied by a margarita made with one of the top-flight varieties available here. I'm partial to the anejo Cabo Wabo. Entrees of shrimp poblano chimichanga as well as a sampler platter containing a beef taco, chile relleno, tamale and chicken enchilada were hot, fresh and perfectly seasoned. And, for dessert, you can't go wrong with the flan, the Mexican brownie or the warm apple pie topped with vanilla or cinnamon ice cream. Both the vigilant service and the well-appointed dining room of this lively Tex-Mex restaurant make this a great place for a festive night out. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Full bar.

Fabio Ristorante, 4150 Hancock Bridge Parkway, North Fort Myers; 656-5727.

Since 1983, the Ciminati family has been dishing up hearty Italian fare served with classic Italian hospitality in their inviting little restaurant tucked into the nondescript Lochmoor Plaza on Hancock Bridge Parkway (just west of Orange Grove Boulevard). Feast on such classics as zuppa di pesce, mussels oreganata, eggplant Parmigiana, or a family recipe (and my favorite) capelli alla Ninetta, pasta with dark, Italian tuna, peas, garlic and onions. Tina Ciminati's tiramisu is heavenly and worth every calorie. The restaurant, which got a makeover following Hurricane Charley, is done in warm earth tones, providing an inviting atmosphere to match the food and hospitality. Open for lunch Tuesday through Friday, dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Beer and wine. Cash or checks accepted.

Rivals Sports Kitchen, Miromar Outlets, Corkscrew Road and Ben Hill Griffin Parkway, San Carlos Par Park; 495-4655.

With TVs tuned into sporting events everywhere you look and sports paraphernalia occupying most of the remaining wall space, it's clear th that Rivals is a sports bar. But it has something that sets it apart from many others: a menu that offers more than the ubiquitous wings, burgers, nachos and fries. A vegetarian three-bean chili had lots of cumin and Southwestern spices along with three cheeses and a dollop of sour cream that gave it a creamy finish. A Thai-influenced dish from the Bowl Season section melded chicken, pea pods, water chestnuts and red bell pepper in a mild peanut sauce. A grilled portobella with herbed goat cheese and roasted red peppers on focaccia bread proved the standout of the meal, served with homemade potato chips dressed in balsamic glaze and blue cheese. A dessert of fried Oreo cookies was surprisingly good with a funnel dough-like covering and chocolate sauce for dipping. Although the timing of courses was a bit patchy, Rivals scored well on food and atmosphere. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Full bar.

The Polpo (octopus) salad, a frequent special at Fabio's in North Fort Myers. PHOTO KAREN FELDMAN The Chicken wings and three-bean chili from Rivals Sports Kitchen at Miromar Outlets.